Fairbanks Tired Iron Race Rules
Fairbanks Tired Iron Race Rules
Remember…This is not strictly a speed race. It’s a combination of racing, with some serious “Lady Luck” thrown in. In other words, you have the same chance of winning the big prize by a number drawing as you do by being the first one across the finish line. Remember… this is about having fun and showing off some cool old iron. It’s not just about our grand prize. So please use your head and be safe.
First of all, the following rules are subject to change by the rules committee. Yes, we hold the right to change the rules as we go along. We aim to make it both fair and fun, so don’t make an issue out of some little detail. Any suggestions you make, between now and race day, will be met with polite nods and possibly even be incorporated into the official rules. Just don’t count on it. The simpler… the better, as far as the unpaid race committee is concerned.
General Information for Tired Iron Classic, Wet Iron, Fun Run and Powder Puff:
All of the Tired Iron races are leaf spring (only) events. For the Classic, Wet Iron, Fun Run and Powder Puff races any air or liquid-cooled sled up to, and including 1979 model year may compete. Clarification: For these Tired Iron races, a sled produced in 1978 is a 1979 MODEL YEAR and IS eligible. A sled produced in 1979 is a 1980 MODEL YEAR, and is NOT eligible to enter.
For the Heavy Metal race, any air or liquid-cooled sled between the model year of 1980 and 1989 may compete. Clarification: For Tired Iron “Heavy Metal” races, a sled produced in 1988 is a 1989 MODEL YEAR and IS eligible. A sled produced in 1989 is a 1990 MODEL YEAR, and is NOT eligible to enter.
Show up early; well before your scheduled event, because your machine will have to get a Pre-Race Safety Inspection.
All sleds must have a well-secured cowling (hood) and seat to begin the race. A working tether switch is required for all events, except the Jurassic and Jurassic II races. Click here for additional information on Tether Switches. Snow flaps are required for all events, except the Jurassic, and should be approximately one (1) inch from the ground on a machine with the rider on it. Snow flaps shall be held down with an adequate material so as to restrain flap from rearward movement. Plastic cable (zip) ties, elastic material, and springs for holding/restraining snow flaps are not acceptable. Windshields may be modified, replaced or removed. If a windshield is used, its edge must have some type of protective edging or covering.
Taillights are now mandatory for all events except the Jurassic and Jurassic II races. You may use any brand OEM production taillight, wired so that the brake element is on whenever the engine is running.
You may use any chain case, as long as it has a cover, and any brake setup may be used, as long as it passes the safety inspection. (All events) Any primary and/or secondary clutches are allowed. Clutches and recoils must be covered for all events except the Jurassic.
Internal engine modifications are allowed. The engine brand must match the chassis brand (Rotax in Ski-doo, Fuji in Polaris, etc.), and the engine cc size must have been available in that year chassis model. The engine must have been manufactured within one year of the stated sled’s model year and no later than 1979 for Classic, Wet Iron, Fun Run and Powder Puff sleds, and no later than 1989 for Heavy Metal sleds. Engine cylinders may be bored up to .060 over the stock bore, and must retain the original cooling concept. All engines must be carbureted. Fuel injection or nitrous is not allowed.
Any exhaust system may be used. Any rear suspension and track may be used, as well as any leaf spring ski, seat, gas tank, handlebars, drive shaft or jack-shaft.
No racer will use alcohol before or during a race. Racers will be disqualified if use is suspected, and no refunds will be given. Driver must be 16 years of age or older to participate. Drivers under 18 years of age MUST have a parent PRESENT to sign a MINOR WAIVER for each event entered. Helmets and eye protection is mandatory.
Bibs must be securely tied to the racer, so that they can be easily seen by Race Officials. If your bib is not securely tied and is “flapping in the wind,” you may be stopped by Race Officials, to secure it, which will negatively affect you. So tie ’em up good!
At the Start Line, when you receive the green flag, you are to begin the race as fast as you can. After leaving the Start Line, it may be necessary to enter or exit the track while slower sleds are racing, so care must be taken to merge with other sleds on the track.
Racers shall stay within the painted lathe trail markers, with the green markers to your right, and the red markers to your left. Any drivers who intentionally depart from the marked course, or cut outside the marked lanes, will be disqualified FOR LIFE, no exceptions… end of story.
All Danger Areas are automatically classified as No Passing Zones. No Passing zones will be clearly marked, and passing in a No Passing zone may also result in disqualification or time penalties, which will negatively affect your course time. You will see an END NO PASSING sign and/or multiple green lathes on the right AND left side of the trail, when you can resume passing. All racers shall adhere to the various posted Danger, Speed Zone, and No Passing signs.
Racers should be aware that there may be disabled, or dead-sleds on the trail, or many other issues that might present a danger, such as spectators, dogs, hikers, and yes, even Bullwinkle himself! So keep alert and be safe. Remember to always slow down, use caution, and yield to pedestrians that may be on the track. This is all about safety first. We will have race officials and selected spectators stationed along the course to watch for safety violators. WE WILL ENFORCE SAFETY RULES!
At the completion of each lap, near the Start/Finish area, racers may be required to pass through a chicane (extra turn(s) built into the track, designed to lower speed and increase safety). Chicanes may consist of a combination of tires, orange traffic candles and hay bales, positioned in a way, to create a series of turns. Racers may proceed through the chicane at a controlled speed, so as not to come into contact with the tires, traffic candle(s) or hay bale(s). If contact is made with either, the racer may be subject to disqualification. Race Marshall John Martin will have the sole and final decision on disqualification for any violations regarding speed, course rule violations, etc. That’s just the way it is, so play by the rules. Remember, we’re here to have fun and support some great charities, not to take unnecessary chances and risk harm to yourselves or others.
In the event your sled is disabled during the race, drive or drag it off to the right side, outside of the course markers. Our rescue crew will be coordinating the retrieval of dead-sleds, as soon as it is safe to move them, which will depend on the location and other variables. Remember, these races don’t last that long, so if you break down, your wait shouldn’t be all that long, so make sure your machine is well off the track and just watch the rest of the race from your front row seat. If you see any sleds that are broken down, or have their hoods up, etc., please exercise caution when passing.
If there is an incident/accident involving your machine, especially if it is blocking the trail, while staying out of danger, do your best to warn oncoming sleds of the potential danger ahead. Our Safety staff will be moving throughout the racetrack looking for trouble on the track, but they can’t be everywhere at the same time, so do your best to keep the track safe, while staying safe yourself. Remember, Safety and good Sportsmanship is the priority.
Please Note: After you cross the finish line at the end of your race, you will have a shut down area before you enter into the Pit area. As you enter the pit area, you will be directed to move your sled to the predetermined Finish Lineup Area (near the Tired Iron Race Trailer) and park where directed by Race Officials, in the same order of finish (left to right), to allow for Finish Order Verification, and Photo-Op’s. This Finish Lineup Is Mandatory.
Green Flag – The Tired Iron races are started in accordance with a computer-assigned start time for each individual rider, so when the Green Flag is pointed to you on the start line and waved, it means you are to begin the race, or, if waved during a race, it signifies that the course is clear and the race is in progress.
Yellow Flag – Signifies there is a safety hazard on the track. Drivers must slow down in a yellow flag area. There is absolutely NO PASSING permitted in a yellow flag area. Once the driver is past the yellow flag area, normal racing can resume.
Red Flag – Signifies the race has been officially ended, and you are to STOP racing, and carefully return to the Start/Finish line in the normal direction to receive directions from Race Officials. Never, Never, under any circumstance, run against the grain, or the wrong way on the track!
Black Flag – Signifies to a particular driver that you are being directed to STOP racing because your snowmachine had been deemed unsafe to continue racing or that you have been disqualified from the race. You must exit the track to the pit area immediately.
White Flag – Signifies that the driver has started their last lap of the race.
Checkered Flag – Signifies the driver has completed the race.
Some final (or not so final) thoughts…
Remember, this is a work in progress, and there will be additional information posted, as it is developed. In some cases, there may be minor changes made. We will make every effort to highlight any new or changed information, to keep you up-to-date. We will be doing this primarily through our website and Facebook page, so check them often to stay informed.
John Martin. will – once again – be our Race Marshal this year. We have advised John that his “Fat Cat” compensation package for this position will be pats on the back from our volunteers, and very little sleep before the event – and he is fine with that. Thanks in advance John!
Tell everyone you know to come out and ride, or just have a great time, watching a great race! Get your Tired Iron ready, and we’ll see you at the races! Good Luck!
–The Fairbanks Tired Iron Team-
How to select a tether switch for your snowmachine:
When selecting a kill switch, be sure to check and see if you need a “Normally Open” or a “Normally Closed” switch. Most sleds require a normally open tether switch. To see whether your machine needs a normally open or normally closed tether, you can perform the following test:
1. Locate the two wires going to your machines kill switch
2. With the kill switch in the run position, test for continuity between the two wires
3. If you DO NOT have continuity, you will need a normally open tether switch for your machine
4. If you DO have continuity, you will need a normally closed tether switch for your machine